Monday 22 October 2012

As It Was

 


Begin.
When this began, I walked with my eyes closed.  My toes, edging, traced the form of a land I didn’t believe in. Tentative, sighing, I was half lost and off the map. 
Begin.
At dawn, a spot before my eyes. A distant dancing blur fringed with grey rainbow, a wind whipped, damp and restless sky, a fog, a path at hide and seek, and steps, and sand, a lump of land, leaden and prone, beside a sea unrelenting. Eyes blink open, walk.
Walking, walking. Walk or sleep/die.  Stagger, stumble, fall aloft. 
Miles away from what I run from, to hide in misty catacombs and bury me under days and ages. And hope, hope to shrug away this detached embrace. This caress that rebukes past tenderness.  To take a million steps or more from the shadow of memory,  and scuff along this place of mine and with rain and spray, wash sourness and soreness away. 
Begin.
The rain was with me at the start, I walked those early days through streets and lanes made slick and shadowed, while terraces steamed and TV screens glittered through netted windows. The land was grey as the sky and the water I walked alongside, the Dee, outpaced me easily, opaque with mud as it was. I navigated fields that could have been back gardens, pushing through long grasses that had soaked themselves to capacity to dump on me. Through smokers’ alleys, past belching chimneys, along crumbling walls and skips, sodden prams and cars on bricks, and roads. Roads, and bus stops I passed, walking on, and still it rained, and weary and sore, laden down and soaking, I reached Holywell, where I stopped and finished my day, and hoped for a dry tomorrow and the sea.

 

Sunday 17 June 2012

Right of the Land

Walk Schedule


JUNE
13 - Chester to Holywell
14 - Holywell to Rhyl
15 - Rhyl to Colwyn Bay
16 - Colwyn Bay to Llandudno Junction
17 - Rest, Llandudno
18 - Conwy to Bangor
19 - Bangor to Anglesey 
20 - Anglesey
21 - Anglesey
22 - Anglesey
22 - Anglesey
23 - Anglesey
24 - Anglesey
25 - Anglesey
26 - Anglesey
27 - Anglesey to Bangor
28 - Bangor - Caernarfon
29 - Rest, Caernarfon
30 - Caernarfon to Trefor

JULY
1 - Trefor to Morfa Nefyn
2 - Morfa Nefyn to Porth Colmon
3 - Porth Colmon to Aberdaron
4 - Aberdaron to Machroes
5 - Machroes to Pwllheli
6 - Pwllheli to Criccieth
7 - Rest, Criccieth/Porthmadog
8 - Porthmadog to Maentwrog
9 - Maentwrog to Harlech
10 - Harlech to Barmouth
11 - Barmouth to Bron Y Foel
12 - Bron Y Foel to Aberdovey
13 - Aberdovey to Machynlleth 
14 - Rest, Machynlleth
15 - Machynlleth to Borth
16 - Borth to Morfa Bychan
17 - Morfa Bychan to Aberaeron
18 - Aberaeron to Llangrannog
19 - Llangrannog to Aberporth (and on)
20 - Aberporth to Poppit Sands
21 - Poppit Sands to Newport
22 - Rest, Newport
23 - Newport to Fishguard
24 - Fishguard to Porthgain
25 - Porthgain to St Justinians
26 - St Justinians to Newgale
27 - Newgale to St Brides
28 - St Brides to Sandy Haven
29 - Sandy Haven to Neyland
30 - Neyland to Castlemartin
31 - Castlemartin to Freshwater East

AUGUST
1 - Freshwater East to Tenby
2 - Rest, Tenby
3 - Tenby to Pendine
4 - Pendine to Llansteffan
5 - Llansteffan to Ferryside
6 - Ferryside to Burry Port
7 - Burry Port to Llanrhidian
8 - Llanrhidian to Rhossili
9 - Rest, Rhossili
10 - Rhossili to Three Cliffs Bay
11 - Three Cliffs Bay to Swansea
12 - Swansea to Margam
13 - Margam to Ogmore
14 - Ogmore to Barry Island
15 - Barry Island to Penarth
16 - Penarth to Newport
17 - Newport to Chepstow

Thursday 17 May 2012

The Chilterns

I’ve started packing in preparation for leaving London. My clothes and books are going into storage, to be unpacked and rediscovered in a new life in Berlin, while all I need for the 65 days of walking and living on a path is going in a rucksack. I’ll be camping most nights. Whenever I’ve camped before it’s been with friends, with cooking kit and tent pegs split over the party, this journey will be the first time that I have camped alone. I’ve begun to walk alone though, to train myself physically for what’s to come but also mentally. The past year has been one where I’ve avoided being alone with my thoughts, where I’ve tried to crowd the ache of sadness from my mind with chattering. Silence has been a threat – disclosing inner discord. For a long time my customary retreat, of reading, was also denied to me. I have never before put away so many books unfinished. So this long, often solitary journey I’m soon to begin will be one where I’ll be reacquainted with me, and with the thoughts I have tried to avoid. I expect this to be painful, but I also know that the path will aid me, and that the sea is going to be my companion for every step. The sea, which restores me.

I recently walked the Chilterns, alone apart from flying ants that dive bombed me for fun.  The sky read grim in the morning, with bottom heavy clouds seeking rest on nearby hills, but the longer I walked, the lighter the day became.  Walking, just walking, feels an indulgence at times when duties press, but this day I had nothing to do but walk, and make my own the memories of these hills I have previously always shared. I followed a river for miles, sometimes walking by its side and resisting the urge to dip my feet in, but more often from a distance, climbing to the edge of the valley and out of earshot of its hurry onwards. As the afternoon drew on the path became a muddy track where stones made a natural staircase, and at the summit, it described the edge of a bluebell wood. I stopped and the air seemed to hold silence, while a veil of gnats danced in emerging sunlight. History looks like this. Over the valley and behind me the sky had cracked open, a chasm of sunshine spilling onto green fields and setting alight the river.

I was the only person in view and that land, just then, felt like it was mine.  







Monday 30 April 2012

Liepnitzsee



Berlin is a long way from the sea, and is locked by a landscape as yet unfamiliar to me. But Berlin does have lakes, huge, beautiful lakes with sandy borders and surrounded by woods. These will be easy to fall in love with.

It was to one of these lakes that we travelled, sweating on station platforms for connecting trains and thinking of the waters that waited. The heat seemed an aberration, 28° in April, and so, while our skin was warm the waters wouldn’t be, frozen as they were two months ago.

The train was half full and it was easy to spot who else was lake bound, dressed for holidays, beer bottles clinked in bags and pink noses were evidence of the surprise sun. We tumbled out of the carriage a sticky mass but everyone except us headed for the first lake at Wandlitzsee, seen from the station as a hint of blue through trees. We walked on, scuffing feet on dusty pavements and swinging towel bags and shooting the breeze until we reached the woods, where we wove a path through tall trees to our lake. Despite the walk, we were far from the only people there – toddlers with straw hats and bare bottoms were dipping their feet at the shore and young sunbathers in print bikinis basked alongside others, older, who hadn’t bothered with swimsuits. We found a spot for our towels and stared out as the waters gently rippled. Occasionally a splash and a shriek reached us as the more adventurous plunged in and teenagers proved their masculinity with a few jerky strokes out. It did look cold, if water can do so, but I couldn’t wait any longer, and so fumbled unnecessarily to put my bikini on under clothes, and went beyond the sandy shore and into the lake. The water was so clear I was in to my thighs and could see reeds weave at my toes, and as I swam, my arms and legs working towards an island before me, the chill of the waters bore an echo of the glacier from which this lake came. I am eye level with the waterline and I am submerged in history. A mystery fish brushed my calf as I swam out beyond where anyone else had dared that day, and I felt the familiar rush of excitement and disgust as the unknown of the lake collided with me. I swam back towards the shore, I didn’t make it to the island that day but there will be other times.

Lake swimming isn’t the same as sea swimming. Lake waters have a border that isn’t apparent at the ocean, and there isn’t that possibility of swimming out and never turning back. You don’t play chicken with waves at the edge of a lake, and you aren’t lifted on a temporary throne of swollen surf, but there are more corners to explore, to doggy paddle through reeds and see the roots of old trees dip into fresh water, and there are so many lakes to see and walk to and to swim. Sea swimming is my first love, reared as I was in the briny waters of Porthcawl rock pools, I was born clutching a seashell to my ear, but I am from the land of llyns and I have time to learn that this second love of lakes can be just as sweet.






Tuesday 17 April 2012

Falmouth

An eight hour bank holiday drive to the sea should be rewarded with a swim. We drove to Falmouth, traveling so slow as to be overtaken by bumblebees and arrived with our bodies cast as car seats, but we got to see our friend and we got to see the sea. We walked to the Harbour and gazed at waters that by rights were too cold to contemplate, and we contemplated. Stared at the waves and bit our lips and wondered if we dared. We didn’t dare that night. We were in Cornwall and so we drank Doombar, ate fried fish and gherkins wrapped in paper bags and walked home. Away from the sea’s inky whispers and up steep terraces, spooking cats by saying hello, to nightcap on homemade grappa and sleep to the pops of an open fire. Tomorrow was for swimming.

Next day, we didn’t get to the beach ‘til evening, and any warmth from the day had long since ebbed. But the sea had caught the sunshine and was holding it to glow opal, it lapped at our feet as we dipped with nude legs and sweaters. We watched dogs wander the beach, surreptitiously pissing on bags, and we stirred the sand with our toes. To go further, towards horizon seemed madness, and so we hesitated, stared at each other and walked as far as our clothes allowed, withdrew, then hitched skirts higher went in again and wondered. But it was irresistible, and so we undressed quickly, before we could change our minds, and jogged to the shoreline, winter skin prickling at April’s shadows and dashed in, gasping, hurting and exhilarating, braving each shocking splash, swam out beyond our depth with burning muscles and shrieks. We ducked and kicked and remembered weightlessness. The water was perfect. And when we swam back towards shore we came out superheroes.

Sunday 25 March 2012

To Whom it may Concern

I had my first sea swim of the year yesterday. I walked along the coastal path in the Gower, from Bracelet Bay to Langland with the sea to my left hand and travelling north – I’ll retrace these steps soon. The last time I was here the sea was a slowly shifting mirror, and a lone man paddled a surf board towards the horizon. Today, the waves are brisk and I meet them in a mix of foam and spit and gasps, persuading myself that this will be the toughest swim this year. It’s not so bad.

This year I’ll be leaving the UK, for a while at least, and moving to Berlin. A number of years ago when I had never been to Berlin, I feared that those I cared for the most would choose this city before me, and move there when I wasn’t happy to go.  But things pass, the places and people held dear shift, and it’s perhaps ironic that this city has become my respite and maybe, I hope, my destiny. But before I go, I want to pay tribute to places, to the land of my fathers and the lands I have lived in, which I shall tear myself from with love and regret and anticipation. And you. Maybe you’ll join me. I hope you’ll join me.

From June to August I’ll be walking the newly opened Wales Coastal Path, from the outskirts of Chester in the north, towards Chepstow in the south. I’d be so happy if you could walk some of these most beautiful lands alongside me.

If you’d like to get in touch about joining me, or find out more you can email me at fuschiapg@hotmail.com or visit http://www.ccw.gov.uk/Splash.aspx

With love.